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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.